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Residential Heating — Furnaces • Heat Pumps • Ductless

No heat, lukewarm air, or short cycling? We stabilize heat first, diagnose the cause, and fix what’s fixable—so your home warms up fast without upsell games.

  • Same-Day Wasatch Front
  • Repair-First Options
  • Clear Communication

Heat trouble usually comes from air or ignition

Most “no heat” calls trace back to airflow that’s restricted or ignition parts that are worn. A clogged filter or closed returns can trip safety limits and shut burners off. Ignitors and flame sensors drift out of spec over time and you’ll notice repeated starts and stops or air that never quite feels warm. Heat pumps acting up during a cold snap? They’ll lean on electric auxiliary heat if defrost, sensors, or charge need attention—which can recover temperature, but it’s rough on energy bills.

Our approach is straightforward: get warm air moving, document airflow/combustion/controls, and correct the root cause. If parts are near end-of-life, you’ll see the photos and readings and you decide the next step.

What we repair (before we replace)

Furnace Heat

Ignitors, flame sensors, inducer/pressure switches, gas valves, limits, boards, and airflow faults that cause short cycling.

Heat Pumps

Defrost and sensor issues, reversing valves, auxiliary heat that won’t stage correctly, and low-airflow lockouts.

Ductless / Mini-Split

Heads not heating, drain float trips, fans, boards, and outdoor faults—quiet heat restored without a change-out.

Thermostats & Controls

Miswired stats, dead batteries, schedules/holds, and staging signals that confuse heat vs. aux heat.

Airflow & Duct Issues

Filter collapse, blocked returns, closed registers, and blower or wheel issues that trigger safety limits.

Before you call: quick things to check

No tools, no panels—just simple confirmations that often save a visit.

Thermostat mode

Set to Heat, temperature above room temp, and confirm it isn’t on a temporary Hold. If battery-powered, swap batteries.

Breaker & furnace switch

Look for a tripped breaker (handle off-center). Turn fully off, then back on once. Make sure the nearby furnace switch is on.

Filter & vents

Confirm a clean filter and open supply/return vents—restricted air can stop heat or make it cycle.

Outdoor unit (heat pump)

Clear snow/debris for airflow. If the unit is iced over, leave it as-is and book service.

If a breaker trips again, or you notice persistent odors, unusual noises, or repeated starts/stops, leave the system off and book service.

Our repair-first process

  • 1) Stabilize HeatGet heat running while we diagnose.
  • 2) Root-CauseAirflow, ignition/combustion, controls—all documented.
  • 3) Fix What’s FixableClean/adjust/replace only what restores reliability.
  • 4) Clear Close-OutPhotos, readings, and next steps for easy approvals.

Heat out right now?

Same-day dispatch across the Wasatch Front. We stabilize first, then complete the repair or provide a simple plan.

Residential heating FAQ

It’s blowing air but it isn’t warm—what could that mean?
Often a filter/airflow issue or an ignition/flame-sense fault that shuts burners off. Heat pumps may be stuck on auxiliary or need a defrost/charge check. We’ll verify and correct the cause.
Do you try to repair before suggesting replacement?
Always. If a reliable repair restores performance, we stop there. If age or repeated failures point to replacement, we’ll show both options with photos and readings.
Can you come after hours?
Yes—same-day windows and 24/7 emergency response across the Wasatch Front.

Heat back on. Rooms comfortable. Clear next steps.

Furnaces, heat pumps, and ductless—fast stabilization, repair-first options, and documented results.

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Innovation

Proactive planning, minimal downtime

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Integrity

Honest work, transparent pricing

Excellence

Excellence

Fast response, lasting results

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